Aka Sliders. Not really camming devices, more spring loaded wedges and great for very thin cracks.
In a totally unscientific test conducted in a local quarry, one member of our staff pronounced himself very impressed - "incredibly strong and stable placements even in the smallest size"
A better idea of the usefulness of Ballnutz (or Ball Nuts) can be gained from viewing the short video below. A size 1 Ballnut was the only protection on the lower/hard section of The Promise at Burbage South. Initially the route was graded E10, 7a but once climbers realised how good the Ballnut placement was - the grade came down to E7 7a. That is how good they are! Unfortunately the placement has deteriorated with use and it is now done with loads of pads and is up to E8 (and presumably back to E10 without the pads).
Using a sliding ball-and-ramp, BallNutz protect small parallel-sided cracks better than any other piece of protection available and they fit where the only other option for pro would be banging in a peg.
- Specialised small crack protection.
- Protect small parallel sided cracks better than any other piece of protection.
- Uses a sliding copper head to cam into rock for more security.
- Can fit in places where the only other option for protection would be a peg.
- Great for trad and aid climbing.