Bonjour,
I live in Ajaccio on the island of Corsica
where I worked for many years as a photographer. I have also
been a collector of climbing equipment for many years now,
specializing in "artificial chockstones". As a history buff, I
have founded and been running the Nuts Museum here in Ajaccio. I
wrote the article Nuts' Story: 2001 a Nut Odyssey
published in the British magazine High Mountain Sports in June
2001 to commemorate the fortieth anniversary of the first
purpose designed nut ever marketed, the John Brailsford Acorn.
My second article Nuts' Story: Clockwork Friends came
out in the same magazine in October 2003 (under the title
Nuts' Story: Adjustable Expanding Protection). As
usual, John Brailsford translated my poorly written English into
good Whymper prose. Maybe you have spotted the poster/calendar
published in High Mountain Sports in December 1999 (shown
above). It was my personal way to welcome the millennium. A half
of a century of "artificial chockstones" were used to write 2000
on a background, ranging from the original British machine nuts
to the most sophisticated camming devices, including several
rare prototypes. I have a very large collection of climbing
equipment, if not the largest, but I am still looking for a
small number of hard-to-find nuts and in spite of a great deal
of research, there are still few old protection devices which my
collection is unfortunately missing. If you have any of these
items and are willing to part with them, I would be sincerely
grateful. The following treasures would be a welcome addition to
the Nuts Museum:
MOAC ( England )
MOAC n°4 on wire
(The bottom right nut on white tape is a n°4 - what is wanted is
that nut on wire like the top three)
BRAILSFORD John (England)
Acorn (1961) medium
and large:
CAMPBELL MOUNTAINEERING (USA)
Wedgefast
(1976/1977) #1 and #8
Saddlewedge
(1976/1977) #1 and #8
Cheetas, all sizes: In 1966/67 along with
his brother Roger and a climbing companion Colin Downer, Guy Lee
manufactured wedge shaped nuts, called Cheeta, and sold them on the
climbing scene in the Peak District. These nuts were used by Guy Lee
and various colleagues on early ascents of routes like Mousetrap on
Gogarth, and Nexus on Dinas Mot (Terry Bolger who was leading the
overhang on this route fell on a Cheeta and it remained jammed in
there for years).
CHOUINARD EQUIPMENT (USA)
Tube Chock (1973)
#4 (without notches)
Tube Chock (1974) #6
(with notches)
FORREST MOUNTAINEERING (USA)
Single Wire
Hexagon
LEEPER (USA)
Z Chock #1 #3
#4 #6
PARBA (England)
Spud (1965) any sizes (on the
left on the photograph).
POOL-TOOL ENGINEERING (England)
Cheating Sticks (1969)
TROLL (England)
Hexagons size 6 and size 7
with lightening holes
Thank you in advance for your time and interest in my project.
With best wishes from Corsica.
Stéphane PENNEQUIN
E-Mail :
pennequin.nutstory@wanadoo.fr